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HOLIDAY 2007

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by Tony Foreman

braised meat

Holiday Braising

The warmth of braised meat always brings comfort to a meal. The deep, rich flavors are traditional, soulful, and best served family style on any day where there is a chill in the air.

What is your favorite braised meat dish during the holidays?
The dish I make for Christmas, which is braised veal. It also happens to be my father’s favorite dish that I make.  It takes about 4 hours to make and people generally flip out over the flavors. The meat is braised in veal and chicken stock, red wine, and finished with a lot of local root vegetables.

Braised Veal recipe


What winter vegetables are best with braised meats and how you would prepare them?
There are two types of vegetables; each has its own purpose. The first is vegetables that are both aromatic and hold their shape (the French call it mirepoix, or the combination of carrots, celery and onions). They should be browned in the pan with the meat. Basically they’ll melt away during the cooking process, but will add a great deal of flavor to the dish. The second is root vegetables. You will want to time out the cooking with each. If you were to add sweet white turnips, I would suggest adding them about an hour and a half before the meat is ready. Golden beets and parsnips are also wonderful; add these about one hour before the meat is ready. The most popular thing to add is potatoes. Usually you add them about 45 minutes before finishing.

What mistakes are made with braising?
The most common is not browning and/or caramelizing the meat properly. You need a heavy pot that will heat evenly. You also need to make sure you brown the meat on all sides, being careful not to burn it.

How much seasoning should be used during the braising process?
You should season the meat with salt and pepper before you begin. Season the dish a second time lightly when you add vegetables to finish. You should adjust seasoning at the finish as well.

Should you rest the braised meat before serving?
I’ve heard it is better on the second day, do you agree? You don’t need to rest it before serving, but if it’s not falling apart it’s not ready to serve.

Tony Foreman is the owner of Charleston, Petit Louis, Pazo and Cinghiale restaurants and wine shop Bin 604. You can ask him your entertaining questions at



TONY'S TABLE

Braised veal recipe
Holiday braising
Say cheese
Grilled to perfection
Asparagus secrets
Holiday food and entertaining
Fall comfort food
Entertaining wisdom

GOODY SHELF
Local farmers' markets
TSP spices, Stone Mill Bakery, Baltimore Cupcake Company, Glarus Chocolatier, Thyme for You
Williams-Sonoma, Good Wives, Lisa Anne’s Decadent Gifts, A. Kirchmayr Chocolatier, Executive Sweet, Mouth Party, Ina Garten
Better Than Bouillon, Solmate, Dangerously Delicious Pies, grapples

CHEW ON THIS

Caterer, Carey Talucci
Longo's, Watertable, Indigma, Three, Cinghiale

Paper Doll Magazine 2008

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