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by Tony Foreman
My fondest childhood memories of the holidays, Christmas in particular, all have to do with food and entertaining (surprise!). Food, and being welcomed into someone’s home with a pure and generous spirit, is my favorite gift. It’s also makes the best memory. What’s more appropriate and personal?
Around the holidays, always have champagne. Pick your favorite, have a lot and keep some in the fridge. (By the way, magnums are more fun and wine also ages better in a magnum, which makes the wine more correct). Something to make that I enjoy very much is Pain d’Epices, a traditional Burundian pastry that is very good throughout the holiday season. Martha Washington made it for General Lafayette after his long voyage to America. Because Martha was somewhat of a kitchen witch (country healer), she knew that the ginger in the bread would heal an ailing stomach and General Lafayette had been eating rancid meat (salted pork) on his voyage.
A slice brushed with butter then toasted and served with a cafe au lait or simply warmed and served with a fruit compote or scoop of ice cream is an excellent way to enjoy it. One of my favorites is having it warmed and served with creme fraiche. I’ll serve a late harvest wine or port along with it.
A simple combination for the holidays is serving one nice cheese along with good Spanish almonds, good bread or nice toast, and other charcuterie that are good at room temperature. Pour good champagne and people will pretty much entertain themselves. Throw a little Pain d’Epices at the end with some port and you’ve got one heck of a party.
Whatever you decide to make or do, it doesn’t have to sound fancy or be fancy. The point of entertaining is the personal care you take toward receiving your guest. Remember to enjoy the celebration with friends and family. A few good quality selections of anything you like are always appreciated by your guests.
Recipe for pain d’epices
Ingredients:
1/4 lb. butter, softened
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup unsulphered molasses
3 eggs
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 tbsp. ground ginger
1 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. ground mace
1 tsp. ground nutmeg
1 tsp. baking soda
3/4 cup buttermilk
1/3 cup fresh orange juice
1 tbsp. grated orange zest
1 cup raisins
1. Preheat oven to 350. Cream butter and sugar together in a large bowl. Stir in molasses, then beat in eggs one at a time. Sift flour, ginger, cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, and baking soda into a medium bowl. Combine buttermilk, orange juice and zest, and raisins in another bowl. Beat flour mixture into creamed mixture 1/3 at a time, alternate with buttermilk mixture.
2. Pour batter into a greased floured 9x13 baking pan. Bake 40-45 minutes or until a knife inserted into center comes out clean.
Tony Foreman is the owner of Charleston, Petit Louis and Pazo restaurants and wine shop Bin 604. You can ask him your entertaining questions at