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SUMMER 2006

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Tony Foreman began his career as a dishwasher in high school. Now his Baltimore restaurants Charleston, Pazo and Petit Louis receive national acclaim. He admits that part of getting it right is just instinct, but he also acknowledges that some things can be learned. He passes his wisdom to men who ask the tough questions:

Jimmy, lawyer, asks:
What is the most important element of being a good host?
Enjoy yourself but not more than anyone else. Be sure to make everyone feel welcome and try to introduce them to others who can do the entertaining while you do the bit of work that you have to do.

Tom, doctor, asks:
How can I wow guests with a cocktail sure to be loved by all?
It’s really important to think seasonally here. There is no one drink for all but when in Rome… What I mean is, in summer, maybe good juleps or crisp Provencale rosé. In winter, maybe a drier Madeira or a freshly made sour. Stay away from either fruity martini-ish drinks and classic martinis and manhattans. With a large crowd, people will get schnockered with those drinks. You’ll never get complaints for having good champagne on hand and a handy bottle of good whiskey around.

Eddie, lawyer, asks:
At what number of guests is it best to go ahead and spring for a bartender?
It depends on how much of a bar you want to have. A more limited bar—thoughtfully chosen—and a professional serving your guests is the ticket. If you are doing the cooking, you can’t be in two places at once. Once you have a dozen people, someone should be your major-domo.

Peter, business exec., asks:
What was the best party you ever threw?
A dinner party in my first apartment building sticks in my head. I lived on University Parkway and all the people on my floor got together for a dinner party. I was maybe 19. Amazing group. Several writers and professors, but I got to see that they were all people. Amazing conversations that night…I could not tell you about what. Like any great party, it was about the people.

If a man wants to throw a dinner party, what’s a can’t-miss, not-hard-to-prep entree?
Good meat, good salt and a good meat thermometer go a long way. I think a boned-out leg of lamb from a good butcher can easily be roasted. Rub in kosher or sea salt (generously) and cracked pepper (optionally studded with garlic or thyme, rosemary or lavender). Start oven at 425 then drop to 350 (you will need a drip pan below a rack). Roast to 130 degrees (take the temperature in the thickest part of the lamb) and let rest in a warm place for a few minutes before carving. Carve across the grain of the meat. This would be a real crowd pleaser, especially with a couple of bottles of good Chateauneuf du Pape.

What is the best accompaniment to dessert?
Dessert wines are often not sweet enough to carry many desserts. They will make the dessert sing if it’s simple, all about fruit and/or wants some acidity. The easy one is chocolate. Buy some Banyuls (sweet red wine from the Cotes du Roussillon) for chocolate desserts. Fabulous match.

Silas, financier, asks:
What is your favorite part of entertaining?
My favorite part of entertaining is the same thing that is most pleasing in my profession. When I’ve had a certain idea, a vision for what an evening could be and I’ve gotten all the details worked out to set the stage and then I get to see characters play out dramas on my stage. Endless entertainment for me. I love doing the work to please my guests. It’s very satisfying.

Bru, casting director, asks:
What is the best music for cocktail hour? For dinner?
Best music is a tough question. Maybe picture a movie with an atmosphere similar to the party you’re about to have and use some of that music. Pacing is important. Too fast and too slow never work. I almost always play very eclectic stuff at cocktail time, quiet things at dinner and funkier stuff after dinner.

Tommy, physician, asks:
Any quick kitchen dos and don’ts?
Do clean as you go. Do make lists and be organized. Do be sure you have all the tools, pans, etc., that you need. Do not try to pull off exotic recipes that are very outside your experience. Simple success tastes better than complex disaster.

Brian, teacher, asks:
How does a host balance serving an interesting wine, while still giving guests something reliable that they will enjoy?
Something reliable pleases no one. Does everyone drive a 92 Honda Accord? Very reliable. Choose what you think will be best with the dishes within your budget.

Guest with wine?
Boy, I’ve had this a lot. You have to decide what your priorities are. If you feel the need to have them opened, but are concerned that they would spoil the meal then open them right away for cocktail time. Maybe later for cheese or something.

Tony Foreman also owns the wine shop Bin 604 at Harbor East.



TONY'S TABLE

Braised veal recipe
Holiday braising
Say cheese
Grilled to perfection
Asparagus secrets
Holiday food and entertaining
Fall comfort food
Entertaining wisdom

GOODY SHELF
Local farmers' markets
TSP spices, Stone Mill Bakery, Baltimore Cupcake Company, Glarus Chocolatier, Thyme for You
Williams-Sonoma, Good Wives, Lisa Anne’s Decadent Gifts, A. Kirchmayr Chocolatier, Executive Sweet, Mouth Party, Ina Garten
Better Than Bouillon, Solmate, Dangerously Delicious Pies, grapples

CHEW ON THIS

Caterer, Carey Talucci
Longo's, Watertable, Indigma, Three, Cinghiale

Paper Doll Magazine 2008

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