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by Tony Foreman
Asparagus is the quintessential spring produce. What is your favorite way to prepare it?
So many ways. First and foremost, I have strong feelings about asparagus being a stand alone dish. This business of garnishing a tenderloin with a couple of spears is offensive to both the tenderloin and the asparagus. My favorite way to prepare asparagus is in a dish where it shows itself to its best advantage. This is easy enough, for example: Asparagus that has been blanched and served with a simple vinaigrette with fresh herbs from the garden is excellent. Nothing could be more entertaining as a course for either a casual or formal menu.
Which are better, the fat stalks or the skinny?
People’s tastes range widely and, as such, there are those that take up the cause for both. Experience brings wisdom, in that the freshness of the asparagus is more important than its size. Equally, if you overcook it and it’s limp, it won’t be good regardless of its size. Something to be aware of, typically the fatter stalks need to be peeled in order for the texture to be as attractive as it could be – the thinner ones do not need to be peeled.
Are you supposed to eat the entire stalk?
You shouldn’t serve any woody parts of asparagus and you should not eat any woody parts either. When preparing asparagus the first step is to feel for where the woody part of the asparagus is and that is where you cut and discard.
Any other local produce we should be on the lookout for?
First, salad greens like arugula, mizuna and mesclun, but especially peas and pea vines. The vines can be just fabulous as a garnish for fish or as part of a salad. Both have a great spring aroma to them. Just add a little mint to whatever the vinaigrette is for the salad. It’s a natural complement.
Sunday spring brunch: any menu ideas?
Brunch is the perfect time to bring asparagus to the main course. Poached asparagus with a couple of poached runny eggs is a pretty perfect thing.
Tony Foreman is the owner of Charleston, Petit Louis and Pazo restaurants and wine shop Bin 604.