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by Tony Foreman
Fall food is all about cozy comfort. Seasonal staples conjure thoughts of brisk evenings spent indoors and long, luxurious conversation by candlelight. We grilled gastropreneur Tony Foreman on fall foods. His answers will give you something to chew on…
What’s in season in fall?
Fall is harvest for many vegetables locally and it is a long season. In September, you still will get excellent heirloom tomatoes, late eggplants and peppers. Apples (there are so many superb varieties in our region) will start before autumn and last till after January. The best greens (collard, kale, mustard) come in October as do local beans (black-eyed peas, canellini, limas). November brings butternut squash and the best cauliflower, broccoli and beets of the year.
What’s your idea of the perfect comfort food? And are there any light versions?
The most comforting dishes are from my great-grandmother in North Carolina. Soups, stews, braised and slow-roasted meats are so satisfying because they require long, slow, patient work to get deep flavors in the dishes. Rather than adjust a dish and make it less caloric (i.e., ruin it), serve lighter portions or maybe have cheese in lieu of dessert. If someone suggested lightening-up Nanny’s Braised Pork Shoulder, with Black-Eyed Peas and Greens she would have taken a cast-iron pan and swung it at his head.
Soothing, warm drinks we haven’t tried?
Do the classics really well: cocoa with really good chocolate and fresh milk and or cream (not more sugar, just better ingredients), a hot toddy with excellent dark rum patiently steeped…Rich reds with potent alcohol (Syrah-based wines, Chateauneuf du Pape, Zinfandel) are pretty darn warming, as is port. I know from personal experience that these can be pretty darn warming. Just don’t heat up too much to drive.
We’re tired of nachos, wings and chili… any other football fare suggestions?
I am a huge football fan but I’m usually too agitated to eat during the game. At halftime, I crave a really good sandwich of some sort. A real muffaletta or Italian cold cut submarines and such, really hit the spot. Real corned beef from a real delicatessen on Lombard Street is the best possible answer. Do not serve shrimp salad or tea sandwiches unless you want to hear about it. Keep the beer dark and rich for these sorts of things.
Any great soup recipes to recommend?
My guests always respond to our bean soups in the fall. They are easy to make and can be great foils for your own signature garnish.
Fresh beans do not require soaking but do require washing and sorting through for stones. Dried beans require soaking overnight in enough water to cover them twice, before cooking.
White, black beans or black-eyed peas can be used for this.
Bring 5 cups of good brown chicken stock to a boil and add 2 1/2 of beans, one Spanish onion, large dice, one medium carrot, large dice, two ribs celery, large dice and three strips of strong smokey bacon. Cook beans until soft (but not yet releasing all their starch and breaking down). Remove bacon and puree in a blender (cool the soup some first, this is dangerous with a hot product). After pureeing the soup, return it to a soup pot and season with a half teaspoon of freshly toasted cumin seeds, a few dashes of Tabasco and salt to taste (beans need plenty of salt). When you serve have fun with the garnish. You could make a relish of tomato, cilantro, garlic, lemon and extra virgin olive oil, maybe a little bit of roasted lamb, or a drizzle of sour cream or crème fraiche that has been seasoned with curry or saffron.
Tony Foreman is the owner of Charleston, Petit Louis and Pazo restaurants and co-owner of wine shop Bin 604. Ask him your entertaining or food question at .